Quotes of All Topics . Occasions . Authors
I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.
Courage, sacrifice, determination, commitment, toughness, heart, talent, guts. That's what little girls are made of.
People always ask me when they see me working out, "What are you training for?" The answer is I'm training for life.
I am only serious about 20% of the time; one of the great joys of my life is the fact that I alone know when that is.
What I love the most about surfing is that it's my first love. It's the first thing I can remember being consumed by.
I think we want to make the sport bigger and better and leave a good legacy for the next generation that comes through.
It's funny, 'cause you think surfing is your whole life, but then when you make a family it seems like it's not at all.
One thing you learn from surfing is how to operate in the present. It's really what the surfing experience is all about.
Everyone gets caught inside when surfing. You have 2 options. Give up or paddle outside. Life is the same. Keep paddling!
Put your hand on your heart and ask yourself, what do I want? The first thing that comes to mind is always the right one.
I just like the idea of trying something that no one's ever tried before, and I really wanted to know if it was possible.
Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.
I figure there's no point in stressing about what's out of my control, and all I can do is make the best of what I've got.
I didn't think that wave was going to offer a ton, ... But the wave just held form, and I was able to get a lot out of it.
Experiencing different cultures is one of the best things a human being can do. It puts your whole world into perspective.
I don't really want people looking to me for inspiration. I just want to be a sign along the way that points toward Heaven.
I've always had a determination to perfect whatever I'm doing. If I can't do something, I work on it until I figure it out.
My hair dries straight naturally, so I'm always trying to find anything to give it volume or give it a little bit of bounce.
People can do whatever they want if they just set their heart to it, and just never give up, and just go out there and do it.
God created the heavens and the earth, the oceans and the waves for our enjoyment. Surfing is just my way of worshipping Him.
I'm the dad, the cleanup guy. I deal with the bigger messes. But I also provide more adventures and excitement. It works out.
I think people are just haters. When they see people doing well, some people, if there's something wrong, they'll pick at that.
There needs to be a reason to go, so you go deeper into whatever place you're visiting to find those unforgettable experiences.
All training does is get us back what we lost when we stopped having to hunt down our food. Our bodies are built for it already.
I actually was consciously trying to emulate bands like Bruce Springsteen, and just trying to emulate what they do structurally.
My belief is where I get my strength. When I'm struggling with something, I can go to him for help and I'm excited to share that.
I think I'm one of the most fortunate people in the world. I travel around looking for the best waves and appreciate it every second.
Nothing could happen to me in the water that would make me want to go on the beach and fight someone. That's just not how I do things.
I began playing drums when I was seven and guitar when I was fourteen, but it wasn't until the early '90s that I took music seriously.
That's really what ultimately matters - the emotions and feelings that you experienced and people around [whom] you experienced [them].
Yesterday I lost not only a competitor, friend but most importantly a brother. Andy Irons you will be in my heart for eternity! R.I.P AI
Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.
The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.
I remember thinking, "Far out, I can't believe this," when I started riding waves. Then I was starting to imagine where it could take me.
Fortunately, I was given an incredible foundation from my independent mother. She showed me what was possible from a strong, loving woman.
Fatherhood isn't always a planned thing, but when it happens you just do it. It's very natural and in that sense it's not really difficult.
Besides surfing, I play tennis, volleyball, I swim, I run hills, or I do high-intensity, high-interval workouts. I'm up at 5 A.M. every day.
Both of my parents are surfers, of course, so they understood where my passion for surfing was at and I guess they saw the talent that I had.
It's the way surfing is - you grow up surfing together, and then you're thrown into a heat at Pipe or a world title bout against one another.
We all need that extra friend outside of our immediate family to talk about that extra stuff you wouldn't normally talk to your parents about.
I just love being on the ocean and being creative on the waves and the feeling you get when you're surfing. All around it's beautiful and fun.
The amount of things you can do with a kettlebell is unsurpassed by any other training equipment - dumbbells, resistance machines, free weights.
Getting back on the surfboard after the [shark] attack was the hardest thing and I did it! After that, the hardest thing was my first competition.
Courage, sacrifice, determination, commitment, toughness, heart, talent, guts. That's what little girls are made of; the heck with sugar and spice.
I had plenty of invites and chances to party when I just started on tour, but I knew partying would prevent me from achieving my surfing potential.
Truthfully, I despise hotels. I've had such better experiences staying at people's houses and guesthouses; it's so much more comfortable and homey.
If you dont see me on tour, its because I have found happiness away from winning, and that might be the biggest achievement I could ever accomplish.
I'm just waiting for God to tell me what to do, but whatever it is, I want to be doing something like I am doing now-serving God and helping people.
Your surfing can get better on every turn, on every wave you catch. Learn to read the ocean better. A big part of my success has been wave knowledge.
A wave isn't like a skate ramp or mountain; everything's moving around and you have to time how to move along with it. That's easier with a slow wave.