You can't be one of the best freesurfers and a world champion.

Make sure your worst enemy doesn't live between your two ears.

I know that if I scare myself once a day, I'm a better person.

I want to do whatever I possibly can to be as good as I can be.

Waves keep coming, that's the one thing you can count on in life

Being able to turn to Jesus after the shark attack kept me alive.

I think I'm getting wealthy in ways that don't count at the bank.

I don't want to not live because of my fear of what could happen.

As long as I'm still surfing wherever I am, I'll always be happy.

Love really makes the world go round, but sex makes love go round.

God has a lot more to give and to offer than the world has to give.

Surfing is a deeply wonderful thing – anytime, anywhere and any way

Surfing makes me happy, so that's just what I'm going to keep doing.

If there was no such thing as barrels I probably wouldn't even surf.

Compassion can drive us to do amazing things and give us perspective.

In the end, my love for surfing helped me overcome my fear of sharks.

Do you think I got stung because I have honey in my coffee every day?

It's like the mafia. Once you're in - your in. There's no getting out.

The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.

I've never actually even contemplated writing a book or having a book.

You can always work harder and we are capable of extraordinary things.

I wasn't born a world champion. I just worked really hard to become one.

The energy that moves across the ocean connects all surfers who ride it.

Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind.

Love God; love others; do your best in all you do, even if you fall short!

It's easier to die when you have lived than it is to die when you haven't.

For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.

If you just get out of your own way... It is amazing what will come to you.

The paramedic whispered in my ear 'God will never leave you or forsake you.'

Surfers are members of a different race of people from the man in the street

A real man is capable of controlling himself before he controls his children.

My favorite toy or game has been the ocean. My real passion is for saltwater.

California has more distractions, more activities for the kids, more driving.

Running is like a form of meditation for me and a great way to clear my head.

The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.

You have to prepare yourself physically as much as possible for a bad wipeout.

I can't change it, That was God's plan for my life and I'm going to go with it.

If you can lessen the chance of a bad injury by being strong, you have to do it.

Most men need their wives to need them, and I've seen that lead to their downfall

Being creative on the waves is challenging, but we each create art in our own way.

Thinking of holding back is blowing it more than pushing your hardest and falling.

Strive to find things to be thankful for and just look for the good in who you are!

In the morning, I'll usually do eggs and toast, but at night I keep it all protein.

Travel's the great educator, especially for the girls. You can't put a value on it.

I need a big wave to really excel. The smaller stuff is a bit like...ballet for me.

Strive to find things to be thankful for, and just look for the good in who you are!

It's a culmination of your life of surfing when you turn and paddle in at Mavericks.

If you want the ultimate thrill, you've got to be willing to pay the ultimate price.

There's really only three things you can write music about: girls, cars and surfing.

Courage doesn't mean you don't get afraid. Courage means you don't let fear stop you.

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